MachineGE GTW585BSVWS

DifficultyModerate

Time45–90 minutes

What you savePump $25–$90 DIY vs $130–$300 professionally

⚠️ BEFORE YOU START

Unplug the washer and drain it first (see the pump-filter guide for the drain hose trick). Residual water WILL come out of the hoses — pan and towels ready.

Tools

Nut driver / socket set
Pliers for hose clamps
Shallow pan + towels
Phone camera

Parts

Drain pump matched to your model number

Step by step

1 Confirm the pump is dead

Clean the filter first — half of "dead pump" calls are a clogged trap. A pump that hums with a clear filter, grinds, or is silent during drain is genuinely done.
2 Get access

Front-loaders: remove the lower front panel (a few screws under the lip). Top-loaders: tilt the machine back or remove the rear/front panel per your model — the pump sits at the tub’s lowest point.
3 Photograph, then disconnect

Photo the hose routing and wiring plug. Release the spring clamps with pliers, wiggle the hoses off into your pan, and unplug the electrical connector.
4 Swap the pump

Most pumps mount with 2–3 screws or a twist-lock bayonet. Transfer to the new pump, reconnect hoses (clamps seated past the bead) and the plug.
5 Leak-test before closing

Run a small fill and a drain cycle with the panel still off and watch every connection, then button it up.

GE GTW585BSVWS notes & error codes

Deep-fill top-loaders let small items over the tub rim — sudden drain failure after a socks load means check the pump inlet first.

Code	What it means
(Light patterns)	Read via service mode

Full details for this machine — common problems, causes, and costs — are in the GE GTW585BSVWS repair guide. The general version of these instructions is here.

🔧 WHEN TO CALL A PRO

If a new pump still won’t run, the control board isn’t sending it power — that diagnosis needs a meter and a wiring diagram, which is a fast pro visit instead of a parts guessing game. If you'd rather skip it entirely, find a washer repair pro near you →