How to Replace the Suspension Rods on a GE GTW335ASNWW Washer — Step-by-Step Instructions
Step-by-step instructions for the GE GTW335ASNWW (top-load washer). Parts and access points can differ slightly by production year — the steps below cover the common layout for this platform, and the model notes flag its quirks.
Unplug the washer. The tub assembly is heavy and rests entirely on these rods — keep fingers out from under it while a rod is disconnected.
Tools
- Putty knife
- A helper (the tub is awkward)
- Work gloves
Parts
- Suspension rod kit — always all four, never singles
Step by step
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1 Confirm it’s suspension
Push down hard on one corner of the (empty) inner basket and let go: a healthy suspension rebounds smoothly and settles; worn rods bounce like a trampoline or clunk.
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2 Open the cabinet
Release the top panel with a putty knife on the spring clips (or rear screws) and tilt it back to expose the four rod tops at the cabinet corners.
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3 Swap one rod at a time
Have your helper lift that corner of the tub slightly, unhook the rod’s top from its cabinet socket and its bottom ball from the tub support, and hang the new rod in the identical position. One at a time keeps the tub supported.
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4 Grease the sockets
Most kits include friction dampers or grease for the top sockets — use it, it’s what stops the squeaks.
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5 Level and test
Close it up, level the machine, and run a fast spin with a couple of towels. The banging should be gone; mild movement on truly unbalanced loads is normal.
GE GTW335ASNWW notes & error codes
Same platform pattern as GE’s larger top-loaders — the shifter and lid lock cover most calls. On a machine this inexpensive, any quote past $300 deserves the replace conversation.
| Code | What it means |
|---|---|
| (Basic control) | Faults signal via flashing cycle lights; tech reads them in service mode |
Full details for this machine — common problems, causes, and costs — are in the GE GTW335ASNWW repair guide. The general version of these instructions is here.
If banging continues with new rods, the tub bearing or a counterweight bolt may be the real problem — worth a professional look before the noise breaks something expensive. If you'd rather skip it entirely, find a washer repair pro near you →
What this repair costs professionally
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