DifficultyModerate
Time30–60 minutes
What you savePart $20–$70 DIY vs $120–$230 professionally
⚠️ BEFORE YOU START

Unplug the washer AND shut both water taps before touching anything. Check the new valve’s part number against your model tag — hot/cold ports must match.

Tools

  • Nut driver or socket set
  • Pliers
  • Towels
  • Phone camera (wiring photos)

Parts

  • Inlet valve assembly matched to your model number

Step by step

  1. 1 Shut water and power

    Close both supply taps behind the washer, unplug the machine, and pull it forward for working room.

  2. 2 Disconnect the fill hoses

    Unscrew both hoses from the back of the washer with towels ready — they hold water. Inspect the little screens in the valve ports: if they’re packed with sediment, cleaning them may fix your fill problem for free. Try that before replacing anything.

  3. 3 Open the rear or top panel

    The valve sits directly behind the hose connections, usually under a small rear panel or the main top panel — a few screws.

  4. 4 Photograph and transfer connections

    Take a photo of the wiring, then move each wire terminal and internal hose clamp from old valve to new one at a time so nothing swaps.

  5. 5 Mount, reconnect, and leak-test

    Screw the new valve in, reattach fill hoses, open the taps slowly and watch the connections for a minute, then run a fill test before pushing the washer back.

🔧 WHEN TO CALL A PRO

If the washer overfills even when unplugged, replace the valve urgently — and if fills are still wrong after a new valve, the problem is the pressure sensor or control, which is meter-and-diagnose territory. If you'd rather skip it entirely, find a washer repair pro near you →

Step-by-step instructions for your exact model

The same repair, tailored with your machine's error codes, known quirks, and typical costs.

What this repair costs professionally

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