How to Replace the Suspension Rods on a Whirlpool WTW7120HW Washer — Step-by-Step Instructions
Step-by-step instructions for the Whirlpool WTW7120HW (top-load washer, smart, impeller). Parts and access points can differ slightly by production year — the steps below cover the common layout for this platform, and the model notes flag its quirks.
Unplug the washer. The tub assembly is heavy and rests entirely on these rods — keep fingers out from under it while a rod is disconnected.
Tools
- Putty knife
- A helper (the tub is awkward)
- Work gloves
Parts
- Suspension rod kit — always all four, never singles
Step by step
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1 Confirm it’s suspension
Push down hard on one corner of the (empty) inner basket and let go: a healthy suspension rebounds smoothly and settles; worn rods bounce like a trampoline or clunk.
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2 Open the cabinet
Release the top panel with a putty knife on the spring clips (or rear screws) and tilt it back to expose the four rod tops at the cabinet corners.
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3 Swap one rod at a time
Have your helper lift that corner of the tub slightly, unhook the rod’s top from its cabinet socket and its bottom ball from the tub support, and hang the new rod in the identical position. One at a time keeps the tub supported.
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4 Grease the sockets
Most kits include friction dampers or grease for the top sockets — use it, it’s what stops the squeaks.
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5 Level and test
Close it up, level the machine, and run a fast spin with a couple of towels. The banging should be gone; mild movement on truly unbalanced loads is normal.
Whirlpool WTW7120HW notes & error codes
Half the "broken washer" complaints on smart models are connectivity, not laundry — the machine washes fine without Wi-Fi. For real faults, it’s the same VMW parts as the cheap models.
| Code | What it means |
|---|---|
| F7 E1 / E5 | Actuator/speed faults |
| F9 E1 | Long drain |
| F5-series | Lid lock faults |
| F8 E1 | No water detected |
Full details for this machine — common problems, causes, and costs — are in the Whirlpool WTW7120HW repair guide. The general version of these instructions is here.
If banging continues with new rods, the tub bearing or a counterweight bolt may be the real problem — worth a professional look before the noise breaks something expensive. If you'd rather skip it entirely, find a washer repair pro near you →
What this repair costs professionally
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